Thursday 16 June 2016

Cool Watch - Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar in the old Master Control collection was introduced in 1997 and phased out around 2004. It measured 37 mm in diameter and 10.1 mm in height, and inside ticked calibre 889/440/2. This ‘perpetual instrument’ was based on JLC’s legendary calibre 889/2, which was paired with a perpetual calendar module, and combined that was called cal. 889/440/2.

The model we present currently, was introduced in 2013. It measures 39 mm in diameter and 9.2 mm in height. Inside ticks the new calibre 868. It is a watch slightly larger in diameter, and slimmer in profile. This Ultra-Thin Perpetual features polished rhodium-plated hour markers and small dots for minute markers.

The dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual displays the perpetual calendar indications in a balanced and extremely clear manner: day, month, date, year and moon phase. Only one corrector regulates all the information. Once set, the automatic watch will not need any adjustment until 2100. The perpetual calendar mechanism takes into account the length of each month and counts 29 days for the month of February in every leap year.

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Cool Watch - IWC Mark X

The Mark X name was adopted by all the manufacturers and in 1944 the IWC Mark X was issued to the military for service. All 12 manufacturers delivered about 150,000 of those watches to the British military while only 6,000 were delivered by IWC http://www.dl4u.co/iwc-replica.html.

The IWC Mark X’s were perhaps the most prominent of the dirty dozen watches. They were 35mm without the crown and had 18mm lugs. They were equipped with the great calibre 83 movement. A 12-lignes (26.5mm) movement with either 15 or 16 jewels, which had a bimetallic screw balance and a Breguet hairspring, and ran at 18,000 vph. The calibre 83 was finely tuned and delivered excellent results while being at the same time extremely reliable and rugged.

One peculiarity of the IWC Mk X was that it was the only watch from the 12 manufacturers that had a snap-on case-back; all other companies used a screwed case-back design. IWC used a lead seal between the case and the case back to prevent water ingress. For 4 years it was used by a variety of military personnel including RAF pilots and navigators.

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